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Feb 25, 2005
“50 Years of Foreigners in San Miguel”
The Precursors -
Two Exemplary Foreigners in San Miguel: Stirling Dickinson and Felipe Cossio del Pomar

by Holly Yasui

Two figures stand out as particularly significant in the development of San Miguel as a place of uniquely international artistic and cultural confluence: Felipe Cossío del Pomar from Peru and Stirling Dickinson from the U.S. Both came to live in San Miguel in the late 1930s, but the vision they shared and the work they did has left a mark on the town still apparent today. The two men were similar in terms of background – both were well educated and artistically inclined – but quite different in terms of personalities.

Cossío, a highly respected art historian and political activist, was sophisticated and widely traveled. He moved in cosmopolitan circles, counting among his friends many Mexican and other Latin American intellectuals. Dickinson, on the other hand, though a graduate of Ivy-League Princeton University, was a shy and retiring person, who felt far more comfortable among common people, like the members of his San Miguel baseball team. According to John Virtue, author of a forthcoming biography on Dickinson, he disliked formal socializing so much that he once fell seriously ill and had to go to the hospital at the prospect of having to attend a formal cocktail party.

Back in the 1930s, the only way to get to San Miguel was by train … the roads into town were no more than muddy or dusty tracks, depending on the season. Stirling Dickinson, a young writer and art student, arrived in 1937, to visit José Mojica, the renown opera singer who had a home in San Miguel. Dickinson fell in love with the town and bought an old tannery building on calle Santo Domingo for US$90 where he set up residence (according to Mary Elmendorf, in “Stirling Dickinson and San Miguel”, http://members.lycos.co.uk/expatpaper/personalities.htm).

That same year, another foreigner stepped off that same train with an grandiose plan: to start a Latin American school of art, both rooted in popular culture and dedicated to the advancement of modern art. Felipe Cossío del Pomar was some 12 years older than Dickinson, and he had the resources and connections to make that dream come true. A founding member of the leftist APRA party in Peru, for which he was exiled from his country, then under a military dictatorship, he had connections with people like Diego Rivera, José Vasconcelos, and then-president of the Republic, Lázaro Cárdenas.

In 1938, President Cárdenas granted to Cossío the property on calle Hernández Macías, the ex-Convent of the Conceptionist Nuns, nearly in ruins and used as quarters for a cavalry regiment of the Mexican Army. Cossío directed the extensive reconstruction to accommodate art studios and classrooms, while Dickinson took on the job of administration and promotion of the newly founded “Escuela Universitaria de Bellas Artes.” Dickinson made several trips to the U.S. and distributed more than 10,000 fliers to universities and cultural centers throughout the U.S. and Latin America in order to publicize the school. (Felipe Cossío del Pomar en San Miguel, pp. 44-45).

The first students from the U.S. came to San Miguel in the early 1940s, to work as apprentices in traditional crafts such as pottery, leatherworking and silversmithing with local craftsmen as well as to study fine arts with world-renown artists such as painter Rufino Tamayo. The students were lodged at the “Rancho de Bellas Artes,” as Cossío called the large tract of land that he purchased from the well-known bullfighter Pepe Ortiz. Los Arcos on calle Santo Domingo marked the entrance to the property, which extended up to what is now the Hotel Atascadero. During this time, Cossío also hosted many famous houseguests such as Pablo Neruda, Alfonso Reyes and Jesús Silva Herzog (Mary Elmendorf, ibid).

The intervention of World War II, and Cossío’s return to Peru in the mid 1940s marked a period of quiescence for the Escuela. After the war, San Miguel was “invaded” by hundreds of young artists peacefully armed with GI-Bill scholarships. Cossío came back to Mexico in 1948, and belatedly discovered that the man to whom he had entrusted the Escuela, Alfredo Campanela, was milking it for profits. Campanela had pocketed the students’ tuition and neglected the studios to the point that there was not enough furniture or materials to carry on classes. At the midpoint of the century, “things went from bad to worse” (Cossío del Pomar, ibid, p.161). The foreign students and teachers, including Dickinson, were caught in the crossfire of a furious disagreement between Campanela and the radical Communist painter David Alfaro Siqueiros, who was working with a group of students on a mural in the school.

That will be the topic of next week’s piece on “50 Years of Foreigners in San Miguel,” as well as brief biographical sketches of the individuals who will be participating on March 12 in a roundtable discussion on their experiences in San Miguel. For more information, call the Center for Global Justice, 150-0025.

left: Drawing of Felipe Cossío del Pomar, by Mallo López, 1952. from Cossío del Pomar en San Miguel de Allende, Editorial Playor, c. 1974

below: Stirling Dickinson leading a tour of gringos, probably Patzacuaro, 1950s. Photo by Peter Olwyler, courtesy of San Miguel Archives Projec


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